SFI0068

Written evidence submitted by the National Federation of Women’s Institutes

Context

The National Federation of Women’s Institutes (NFWI) welcomes the opportunity to respond to the inquiry on the sustainability of the fashion industry. 

With over 220,000 members across England, Wales, and the Islands, the NFWI is the largest voluntary women’s membership organisation in the UK. The NFWI is an educational, non-party political organisation established to provide women with opportunities for learning and to give women a voice in their communities and our wider society. Throughout the WI’s history, members have campaigned on issues such as equal pay, protecting the honeybee, from AIDS/HIV awareness to tackling climate change. NFWI campaigns are underpinned by an entirely member-led resolutions process that places members at its heart and ensures WI campaigns respond to issues which members are passionate about.

Protection of the natural world has long been a priority for the WI, a desire to protect the environment has formed the basis of many WI campaigns over the last 103 years. The WI’s first environmental campaign stemmed from a resolution passed in 1927 on protecting the oceans from oil pollution. Since then the organisation has worked on protecting the environment and reducing waste, for example campaigning to improve inadequate sewage systems, reduce excess packaging, campaigning for tougher action on climate change and starting an anti-litter campaign which led to the formation of Keep Britain Tidy. The NFWI also worked on a Fast Fashion campaign in 2011 which looked at the impact fast fashion can have on the environment and people.

Achieving sustainable development is a key objective of the NFWI. Alongside the End Plastic Soup and Fast Fashion campaign, members also campaign to end food waste and tackle climate change. Living a sustainable lifestyle is important to WI members who have a strong belief in personal agency, as evidenced by research undertaken by the organisation for our centenary which revealed that 94% of WI members had volunteered in the last 12 months.

The WI’s historic and current organisational interest in protecting the environment and the ocean, along with the ongoing engagement of 220,000 members, means the NFWI is uniquely placed to contribute to this inquiry about the impact the fashion industry has on the environment, particularly regarding ocean pollution.

End Plastic Soup campaign

At the 2017 Annual Meeting, WI members passed a resolution with a 98.9% mandate calling on government and industry to research and develop solutions to limit the release of microplastic fibres, which are shed from synthetic clothing when laundered and end up polluting the environment. The End Plastic Soup campaign was launched following the Annual Meeting.

A major source of microplastic pollution is from microplastic fibres, plastic particles smaller than 5mm that are shed from synthetic clothing when laundered.  They are classed as the third largest primary source of microplastic pollution.[i] Due to their small size, they are too small to be caught by washing machine filters and the sewage system and end up in marine and freshwater environments. The NFWI is concerned that microplastics can be released into the environment through bio solids created at wastewater centres; one study estimated that over 90% of microplastics are retained in sewage sludge which is then applied to farmland across Europe.[ii]

The intention of the campaign is to better understand the scale of the problem and to push for the development of solutions.

Since the campaign launched, WI members have raised awareness of the issue in their local communities. The NFWI produced a ‘Wash and Wear Well’ checklist which outlines small ways you can make a difference in your own home, for example washing at 30 degrees and filling your washing machine up to the maximum to avoid friction between clothes, which also reduces individual’s water and carbon footprints. The checklist asks you to consider upcycling and repairing your clothes before purchasing a new item and to think about the impacts of ‘fast fashion’.

WI members wrote to their MPs, requesting in-depth research into the issue, particularly focused on the long-term impact of microplastic fibres on the marine environment and to identify ways to prevent fibres being released into the water supply.

The NFWI has also engaged MPs on this topic through our End Plastic Soup drop-in session on 4th July (sponsored by Rebecca Pow MP). The drop-in attracted MPs from across the political spectrum and they were encouraged to sign an Early Day Motion based on previous Environmental Audit Committee recommendations on microplastics.

In April 2018, the NFWI developed a survey that was open to both members and non-members. The findings have been developed into our new report, In a Spin: How our laundry is contributing to plastic pollution.

In a Spin: How our laundry is contributing to plastic pollution

Our report presents the findings of the NFWI’s research which was carried out as part of the End Plastic Soup campaign. Nearly 1,500 members and non-members completed an online survey about their washing habits and how they purchase and dispose of clothing. Respondents were spread across England and Wales (plus the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man), with the majority coming from the South East of England.

88% of respondents were WI members and the majority (81%) were aged between 45-74 years old. The average household contained two adults (67%). The survey asked whether respondents had children aged 12 years and under living in their household (this age was chosen as a cut-off point to gather information about the size of the garment and look at how washing and buying patterns changed); 6% of respondents did.

While previous consumer research has focused on disposal routes for clothes and the amount of clothing that is wasted, there is little data on day-to-day washing habits and the types of fibres people are washing on a regular basis. The In a Spin report aims to build a clearer understanding about the amount of synthetic clothing that is regularly washed and the potential scale of microplastic fibre release.

Key findings

• Nearly half of respondents’ most washed items contained more than 30% synthetic fibres

• On average, respondents were doing 2.5 loads of washing per week per household which equates to 68 million loads of laundry per week nationally

• At least 9.4 trillion fibres could be released per week in the UK*

* Based on 2016 Napper and Thompson results of a 6kg polyester-cotton wash

• On average, respondents’ synthetic outerwear is washed 1.3 times per year.

• Two-thirds of respondents said their households purchased and disposed of between 1-20 items a year, which could mean as many as 17,680 new garments bought and 19,340 items disposed of per year.

• Nearly 90% of respondents purchase up to 40 items of clothing each year

• Almost half a million households send most of their unwanted clothing to landfill

• The NFWI’s End Plastic Soup campaign is making a difference - 62% of respondents indicated that they had made some sort of behaviour change as a result of the campaign.

• This is a multi-sector issue and one that needs collaborative action, but ultimately the responsibility lies at the source.

What the NFWI would like to see next

From industry

The issue of microplastic fibres involves a wide range of stakeholders, from the water companies to fashion brands and washing machine manufacturers. The NFWI believes that all stakeholders must work together and recognise that each has a role to play. However, ultimately, the NFWI believes that the responsibility lies at source, meaning that clothing producers and retailers need to acknowledge the role they are playing in polluting the environment and work towards reducing the amount of fibres emitted.

The NFWI is pleased to see industry efforts to research and gain a better understanding of the complex issue of microplastic fibre release. For example, the Microfibre Consortium, was set up by the European Outdoor Group and includes brands such as M & S and ASOS, in response to a growing need for industry action to develop solutions.

In addition, a Cross Industry Agreement, endorsed by the European Commission, was created in January 2018 and includes the European Textile and Apparel Confederation (EURATEX), the International Association for Soaps, Detergents and Maintenance Products (A.I.S.E.), the European Outdoor Group (EOG), the European Man-Made Fibres Association (CIRFS) and the Federation of European Sporting Goods Industry (FESI). All of these industry stakeholders have agreed to work together to combat the release of microplastic fibres in the marine environment.

The NFWI realises that the issue is multi-faceted. Washing machines carry the fibres into waste water treatment centres where they are released into the environment. Therefore, the NFWI is particularly interested in the development of washing machine filters and whether they can be part of the solution.

While there are concerns about the practical difficulties and financial costs in introducing a type of filtration at waste water treatment level, the NFWI believes it would be helpful to understand the scale of fibre release through monitoring at waste water treatment centres and the impact of these fibres being retained in sewage sludge for agriculture.

To achieve change, we must take the debate through the entire journey, from the production of clothing all the way through to the release of the fibres at waste water treatment centres, with all concerned parties working together.

From Government and academia

The NFWI welcomes the Government’s recent pledge of £200,000 to Plymouth University to explore how plastic particles from tyres, synthetic clothing and fishing gear enter our waterways. However there are significant knowledge gaps in relation to microplastic fibres that need addressing.

There needs to be a clearer understanding of what factors affect the rate of shedding for different fibres and studies that reflect a realistic wash load of a mix of fibres. Research should focus on:

• The impact of detergents and softener

• How the temperature of the wash affects shedding

• What type of washing machine people own (front-load or top-load, research suggests top load releases more fibres)

• Whether the age of the garment impacts fibre release

Clearer reporting of fibre release through developing an industry test method will encourage brands to report fibre release consistently and recognise which fibres are the most polluting.

The NFWI is also concerned about the long-term impact the fibres have on marine life and the impact of fibres being retained in sewage sludge (bio-solids) which is then used for agriculture. Addressing these knowledge gaps will help to inform long-term solutions.

To ensure that the wider issue of microplastic pollution is not set aside, the NFWI is calling for the Government to follow the Environmental Audit Committee’s recommendation of publishing a comprehensive strategy for researching and mitigating sources of microplastic pollution, particularly in relation to synthetic fibres.

From Consumers

Raising awareness amongst consumers is an important step to ensure that they understand the potential impact their purchasing choices and behaviour have on the environment. The NFWI’s End Plastic Soup campaign is educating WI members and the wider public about the issue of microplastic fibres and suggesting individual actions that can help to reduce the amount of microplastic fibres entering the ocean.

The NFWI also believes it is important for people to buy fewer clothes in the first place, and buy second-hand as much as possible. Research by the charity TRAID found that 23% of Londoner’s clothes are unworn, the equivalent of 123 million items.

With regards to microplastic fibres, the development of capture products such as the Guppy Friend and the Cora Ball has played a positive role in allowing concerned consumers to make changes in their own lives, and to raise awareness of the problem. However, we believe more research is needed to fully understand their success rate and practicality. In addition, it is important to ensure correct disposal of the fibres.

The onus cannot solely be on consumers taking responsibility through behaviour change. The majority of consumers are unaware of what microplastic fibres are and there is a lack of consumer choice when it comes to purchasing less polluting clothing. While consumers play an important role through raising awareness of the issue, making lifestyle changes and putting pressure on industry, for substantial change to occur it is necessary for industry, NGOs, academia and government to come together to seek solutions.

Recommendations

Academic research to address knowledge gaps:

• Academic research should focus on the impact microplastic fibre pollution has on marine life and the impact of fibres being retained in sewage sludge used for agriculture.
• There needs to be a clearer understanding of what factors affect the rate of shedding for different fibres and clearer reporting of fibre release, to ensure consistency. It is hoped that the Microfibre Consortium’s work with the University of Leeds to develop an industry test method to understand the weight of material release will encourage brands to report fibre release and recognise which fibres are the most polluting.

Government action on the issue of microplastic fibres:

• Government should publish a comprehensive strategy on what steps it is taking to research microplastic fibre pollution to help inform solutions to the issue. The Government needs to recognise that this as an urgent, emerging issue that needs direction.
• The NFWI welcomed the research funding grant of £200,000 to Plymouth University, however this is not sufficient to address the issue. More funding is needed to support academic research into the area.

Engagement from retailers:

• Retailers need to recognise the role their businesses play in polluting the environment and take action as part of their commitment to the Sustainable Development Goals. They need to educate their suppliers, manufacturers and colleagues on the issue of microplastic fibres, as well as join current industry efforts to ensure that tackling the problem is part of their sustainability agendas.
• Retailers should improve messaging to consumers about the importance of repairing, re-using and upcycling garments, as well as offering repair and recycling services to consumers, for example by rewarding customers who return unwanted items in store.

Collaboration across sectors:

• Industry collaboration will be vital to achieve change, with all concerned parties working together to recognise their role in developing solutions. The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) 2020 commitment coordinated by WRAP brings together 85 clothing retailers in a collaborative effort to reduce their environmental footprints of the clothing industry.

However, there is currently no action point for mitigating and researching microplastic fibre release. Post 2020 we would like to see SCAP or an equivalent to be continued and to encompass microplastic fibres. As part of this, a collaborative cross-sector group made up of retailers, washing machine manufacturers, water industry, DEFRA and researchers would be welcome.

Development of washing machine filters:

• Ideally solutions need to come from the source of the pollution and the NFWI hopes that further research, as outlined above, would inform textile and clothing manufacturers about changes that can be made to reduce fibre release.

The NFWI would like to see more research into the development of washing machine filters, as filtration at household level could make a positive contribution to the reduction in fibre release, however the method of disposal of these fibres should be carefully considered.

Consumer behaviour change:

• Individuals can reduce their microplastic fibre emissions through making small changes in the way that they wash, buy and dispose of clothes. We know there is still room for improvement as the report findings show nearly 60% of respondents wash their clothes at 40 degrees. The NFWI’s Wash and Wear Well guide lists a range of actions that individuals can take to help them do this. The NFWI will continue to promote the ‘Wash and Wear Well’ checklist and ask WI members to use their crafting skills to hold awareness events and teach the younger generation and their communities on what to do with damaged clothing, channelling the ‘Make Do and Mend’ philosophy. 

November 2018