SFI0027

Written evidence submitted by Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs

Sustainability of the fashion industry: the footwear perspective

This written evidence concentrates on the growth of footwear as a product category within the fast fashion industry.  It refers to the terms of reference from a footwear perspective and is an update and development of some key themes that were initially identified in our research for the text book Marketing Fashion Footwear, published in 2017. 

Footwear was traditionally retailed and marketed through different channels compared to fashion clothing, however the last decade has seen high street clothing retailers enter aggressively into the market and mirror the fast fashion clothing retail model.  Fast fashion footwear is mass produced, trend led footwear, largely available in a self-service retail environment and sold in pairs through a variety of retail outlets not exclusively footwear retailers.

It is important to consider footwear as a separate product category to clothing as its manufacture, supply chain and consumer demands can be very different.  

Context  

The average price of a pair of adult’s shoes has fallen over the last 20 years, like clothing this deflation is attributed to globalisation.  Production capacity has increased, particularly in China since the mid-1990s and it now produces two thirds of global footwear output. The majority of these shoes are made from synthetic materials which are relatively cheap and reliable to use - compared to natural materials such as cattle farming for leather, growing rubber and cotton.  Supply chains have become much more efficient, agile and responsive as has communication and logistics management.  There is more choice due to cheaper economies of scale which has increased competition in the retail market and given more options to the consumer.  The consumer now has an expectation of choice and availability which has become more prevalent than quality, fit and durability particularly in fashion styles.  

Trade incentives / disincentives: After the end of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) in 2005 the EU imposed an import quota on footwear from China and Vietnam (between 2006 – 2011) in a bid to protect EU manufacturing. In 2011 this was not found to be of benefit to global trade and abolished and a clear motivation for retailers to source cheaper footwear from outside the EU.

The footwear consumer

Footwear sales in the UK grew 8% in 2017, reaching £11.8 billion approx. That is 7 pairs of shoes sold for every man, woman and child in the UK.  It is set to grow by 5% in 2018 and Mintel forecasts that the footwear market will grow 26%, reaching £15.6 billion by 2023.  Consumer confidence will be knocked by Brexit (exchange rate fluctuations and import challenges) but this is still a growth market which continues to outpace clothing sales growth, which rose 3.1% in 2017.

Ease of purchase: availability in store through self-service in non-footwear specialists (such as M&S, New Look and supermarkets) versus interacting with a sales assistant and checking fit. Internet / online stores now offer a huge variety and convenience (in-store storage space means size and colours are limited). Choice and a variety of colours means there are more styles to purchase and therefore has created more promotions and incentives.

Fashion Trends: Casual dressing – rise of sports trends in footwear and wearing trainers for style not performance of sports is set to increase. The acceptance in work and on social occasions makes this the fastest growing product style for men and women. Wearing different footwear for status, identity and showing affluence rather than just practical, durable or functional purpose. Mirroring celebrity styles and no longer purchasing as replacement but for styling and different occasions. There is not the same expectation that this footwear will last and the consumer wants convenience, quick styles that change and so therefore they don’t need them to last. Increase of social media and unavoidable consistent images of desirability means consumers act on psychological as well as practical motivations.

Environmental impact

Global production of footwear has increased from approximately 10 billion pairs in 1997 to 23 billion pairs (per year) in 2017.  There are two key areas to consider from an environmental and sustainability perspective: first is manufacturing and second is the disposal of footwear.

Manufacturing

Raw materials, such as the use of chrome chemicals to tan leather is believed to be the 4th most polluting process in the world according to worst polluted.org. The use of synthetics (man-made materials) from petroleum is widely used in production for casual footwear and trainers.  For the most part these are not made from recycled material or currently recycled. A variety of techniques are used in the manufacture of footwear but for example injection moulding creates less waste in terms of no off cuts (like a flip flop sole cookie cutter does) but as it works on the concept of economies of scale the more you make the cheaper they become – it encourages over production to bring down the price. Ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer (EVA) or foam rubber (not real rubber from the rubber plant) is what the majority of cheap flip flops and trainer lining/ padding is made from and not recyclable in its current form. There are several studies that focus on the use of leather production, toxic glues and water pollution.  In 2012 MIT conducted a study looking at the CO2 emissions in the production of a trainer and found it was 2.7kg. The equivalent to driving 10 miles in a car to produce one shoe.

Disposal

We manufacture 5 million pairs of shoes per year in the UK, not a huge volume of shoes from a global perspective however we consume the most per capita in the world (7 pairs per person) so the disposal of footwear is the immediate environmental crisis that needs addressing.  Most shoe components are not biodegradable and the leather tanning process stops the decomposition of a raw material. Synthetic materials that do not decompose can end up in the ocean adding to our plastics crisis. Most of our shoes go into landfill. Some shoes are laterally cycled – re sold on eBay etc and some are donated to charity. Cobblers still prevent many shoes going to landfill but with the increase of trainers and synthetic materials the techniques used need much more investigation. On the whole there is very little incentive from local, central government or the EU to recycle footwear. There are less primary studies done in this area and much more needs to be done.

Sustainability

The footwear manufacturing industry and retail supply chain is currently unsustainable.  23 billion pairs of shoes are manufactured each year, this has levelled off and there is little growth forecasted. Although there will not be the soaring growth in production of recent years there is still a needs to sustainably dispose of a phenomenal volume of shoes every year.  Recycling components and making components out of recycled material is going to have to be key, particularly as resources such as petroleum and farming become more expensive. Alternative forms of mass customisation of key components such as soles and heels also needs to be considered.

Industry initiatives

3D printing:  Initially larger brands such as Nike and Adidas have harnessed their research and development of 3D printing into marketing communications messages.  However this process of manufacture has to be adopted by the mass fashion producers as the technology develops. The use of bespoke 3D printed components needs further investment, encouragement and even directives in place. The materials used could be recycled and / or biodegradable. Further research is needed.

Recycling of synthetic based products: Small incentives by brands using old tyres as soles do exist and brands such as US based Okabashi have a recycling process built into their manufacturing process to reuse the flip flops that either they haven’t sold or that have been worn and returned by customers. Nike have ground up old trainers and use them in playground surfaces. These small initiatives need to be adopted by the large manufacturers.

Thinking points and recommendations

De growth

• A reduction in the amount of shoes produced might not be as difficult for a younger generation that has grown up with excessive choice, over consumption and social media to come to terms with. However older generations now expect plentiful choice and consider this a freedom earned.
• Controlling the amount of new collections or products that are allowed to be retailed through a quota system rather than a trade quote of how much retailers can import could disrupt the fast fashion over production issue.  Introduce a limit on how much can be sold at a certain price. Exclusivity and limited editions lead to increase desirability (see queues for streetwear brand Supreme).

De globalisation or Localisation

• A return to handmade shoes by smaller local companies using less chemicals and better quality. Tax incentives for smaller companies to encourage sustainability. A focus on one style of shoe to maximize productivity and using natural or recycled materials and eco tanning techniques. In the UK the footwear industry produces about 5 million pairs of shoes a year, much of this is not classified as fast fashion however working with and supporting these businesses will encourage local growth and environmental issues could be addressed. 
• Chronic under investments for the past 50 years means that the UK cannot compete on cost alone (New Balance and Hotter are good examples). There are high commercial risks associated with footwear manufacturing and this could be underwritten by the government.  The rewards are a better environment and less waste going into landfill.
• What are the rates of carbon emissions from air freighting fashion footwear into the UK? Figures will be available from Customs & Excise.  Is it necessary to air freighting non-perishable items such as clothing and footwear?
• Incentives for consumers to buy a UK made pair of shoes with no VAT could stimulate sales.

Design and Education

• All commercial design briefs to include a sustainability and closed loop aspect as standard (like a risk assessment or Health and Safety considerations).
• Our design education system is the best in the world.  Consider a national education scheme to embed sustainability and recyclability into Further and Higher Education curriculum with financial incentives for colleges and universities.
• A series of short training courses for designers and makers (at any stage in their career) on sustainability endorsed and by the government and funded by the least sustainable companies.

Footwear recycling infrastructure

• Research by Loughborough University SMART centre identified a process of grinding down shoes to separate parts for use elsewhere.  A government facility to do this is needed and identify a market for the recycled waste so the facility is a self-sustaining entity. This exists for other types of waste management and needs further investigation.
• Recycling facilities on the High Street next to the shops where new fast fashion is sold (similar concept to health warnings on cigarettes, alcohol and gambling!) 
• Money back / brand credits to customers that engages with recycling as they become more aware similar to the glass bottle return policy or discount if you trade in an old car. 

Labelling in shoes 

• There is currently an EU directive that requires all footwear to specify the material that is used in the 3 main parts of a shoe - the upper, the lining and sock and the outer sole.  This could be extended to include recycling symbols or a statement that they are not recyclable.  The sticker is usually removed before wear or printed in the shoe but this could be an awareness raising campaign.  Products such as fridges and batteries have guidelines – why not shoes?
• Continue promoting recycling and sustainability as the right way forward – ‘fake it till you make it’ fashion is cyclical and there will be a swing back from mass manufactured goods to bespoke and limited products.

Concluding comments

Two key aspects are covered briefly in this updated research: Firstly the change in consumer behaviour as a result of apparent greater choice in fashion footwear and the second aspect is understanding fast footwear production and disposal from an industry perspective.  I believe the responsibility and power to change lies within the commercial industry and the government.  It is not solely a consumer-driven or people power responsibility or movement.  As consumers, our power to choose affordable, equitably made products has disappeared from the (industry controlled supply chain) and these products are very limited.  Our supply chains are so opaque and eroded that the majority of consumers do not have a choice and do not realise it.

Fashion in its truest form is an incredibly resourceful and disruptive entity.  It is about inventing something new in the face of what is acceptable by the majority.  What is accepted by the majority now is poorly made, exploitative, mass produced products.  The industry, with government support has the capacity to find a more effective way of satisfying the consumer.  If the rules and reward system are changed, fashion will reinvent itself - the designers, makers and entrepreneurs will find a solution. The fashion industry has the power and persuasive techniques to convince the consumer. The change required is their responsibility but there is little incentive while profit is made and little regulation created or enforced. Top-down changes are desperately needed with clear rules and regulations.

References

Armstrong-Gibbs, F & Mclaren T, (2017) Marketing Fashion Footwear: The Business of Shoes, Bloomsbury, London.

Mintel Footwear Retailing UK June 2018 

Useful sources

www.worldfootwear.com

www.intcorecycling.com/How-to-Recycle-EVA-foam.html

www.solereview.com/difference-between-compression-and-injection-molded-eva-midsoles/

http://labourbehindthelabel.org/report-how-to-do-better-an-exploration-of-better-practices-within-the-footwear-industry/

http://worstpolluted.org/

https://www.nike.com/gb/en_gb/c/sustainability

https://weibold.com/weibold-academy-recycled-tires-in-footwear-manufacturing/

http://www.lboro.ac.uk/eng/research/imcrc/brochure/first-edition/footwear-waste.html

https://britishfootwearassociation.co.uk/

September 2018